19 Eylül 2012 Çarşamba

Noble Hops and Subtle Grapes at Press Club San Francisco

By Emma Krasov,photography by Yuri Krasov

Intriguingly named, PressClub is centrally located in the neighborhood of Yerba Buena Center for theArts in the beloved city park, palatial San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, andDaniel Libeskind’s soaring blue cubes of the Contemporary Jewish Museum. Surrounded by art venues, this wine bar and lounge is initself a piece of art from its sleek modern design to its drinks list thatreads like Who’s Who in the artisanal wine and beer production.  The men behind the upscale libations are general manager Kristian Cosentino, who is also aresident beer expert, and wine director MauroCirilli. The beer expert puts a lot of emphasis on “noble” hops treatedlike grapes – stored and aged like wines – and on elaborately produced soursthat take weeks and months to make. The wine director makes a clear preferencefor elegant sophisticated varietals that won’t overwhelm the palate but willcompliment the food prepared by TasteCatering & Event Planning and served here a la cart as snacks, bites, andplates, or in three- to five-course pairings.   With more than 30 wines by the glass, 100 handpicked bottlesfrom all imaginable winemaking countries and regions, and 30 beers fromfarmhouse ales to fruit, sour, and spiced masterpieces, the food and drinkpairing at Press Club reaches the state of art. For a charcuterie board of delicacies from Molinari, Fra’ Mani,Fatted Calf and other notable salumi makers, Sierra Nevada “Northern HemisphereHarvest” Fresh Hop Ale from Chico, and Mikkeller “19” IPA from Denmark seemedequally perfect, or so I thought until I tried the Drakes Brewing Company“Aroma Coma” IPA from San Leandro that smelled like perfume, tasted likeheaven, and apparently won every award in the book. 2010 A’Cote’Chardonnay from Santa Barbara was a fine matchfor Sequatchie Cove Coppinger Arancini  with tahini aioli, roasted and pickledmushrooms, and frisee. Shaved Toybox Squash and Gioia Burrata Pizza paired nicely withboth 2010 Pinot Noir Sea Slopes from Fort Ross, Sonoma, and Bellegems “Bruin” Sour/WildAle from Belgium. Other wonderful things not to be missed at Press Clubinclude Blackened Deviled Glaum Ranch Organic Eggs – always tough to pair witha drink, but surprisingly harmonious with sour beers like my favorite DogfishHead “Black & Blue” Belgian Golden Ale from Delaware, and Brouwerij Bocker“Cuvee Des Jacobins Rouge” Flemish Sour Ale from Belgium. 
House Pitman Farms Duck and Pinot Noir Sausage with a quinoafritter, roasted peach, and pickled cherry duck jus finds a good match in 2009 PinotNoir Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara. The Marin Sun Farms Lamb Sliders on Cumin Focaccini Rolls arespiced with house made harissa aioli and cooled with cucumber carrot slaw.For a sweet finale, house made petit fours du jour caninclude dark chocolate confections, a shortbread cookie, panna cotta, and patede fruit – all wonderfully complimented by 2009 Rancho de Oro Puro (lateharvest Semillon and sauvignon blanc) from Oro Puro Vineyards in Napa Valley –as precious as pure gold, indeed. 
My visit to Press Club happened to be on a blue moon night –the second full moon in the same month – and the view of the night sky over thewine club was gorgeous, but I surely plan to visit more often than once in ablue moon. These days, Press Club is turning 4! The public is invitedto celebrate on Monday, September 10 from 4 p.m. until close with $4 glasses ofProsecco and $4 glasses of Dogfish Head '120 Minute' IPA.Also in September: Press Club is adding Visiting Brewersseries to its already popular Visiting Vintner series. Jesse Friedman of San Francisco’s Almanac Beer Co. will be on the premises on Friday, September 21from 5 to 9 p.m.  Selecting the bestlocally sourced fruit and blending it into beers inspired by the great brewingtraditions of the world, Almanac is produces seasonal artisan ales. On Thursday, September 27th from 6-9 p.m., Visiting Vintner Seth Kunin of Kunin Wines will personally pour his wines for Press Club guestsand share the stories behind them.  KuninWines was founded in 1998, and has grown its production to 5,800 cases. Theboutique producer of premium wines purchases grapes from the finest vineyardsof the Central Coast region of California. Varietals include Syrah, Zinfandel,Viognier and blends of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. Press Club is located at 20 Yerba Buena Lane between Marketand Mission Streets. Open to the public Monday to Thursday 4-10 p.m., Friday 4p.m. till close and Saturday from 2 p.m. till close. Closed on Sundays. Freewi-fi access. Call 415.744.5000 or visit: www.PressClubSF.com.

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