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By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov
A series of serendipitous events preceded my participationin the 10
th Anniversary luncheon at
Piperade – chef/owner
GeraldHirigoyen’s outstanding Basque restaurant in San Francisco. Back in the 1990s, when we still lived in Chicago, on ourfirst visit to the City by the Bay my dear husband took me to the “best Frenchrestaurant in town” recommended by a knowledgeable friend – and that wasFringale. I still remember the creamiest sauterne-pouched foie gras and thetender pan-fried skate wing served on a bed of piperade – tomato, bell pepper,and onion sauce. Inspired, I bought a book, “Bistro, The Best of CasualFrench Cooking” written by the then Fringale chef, Gerald Hirigoyen.
With various degrees of success I attempted to recreate athome the majority of Bistro book recipes from relatively easy onion pie to complexcassoulet with meticulously fat-preserved duck confit.Sautéed figs with roasted almonds and crème mousselinebecame my top dessert for entertaining, and whenever my teenage daughter wantedto get on my good side, she would present me with a lemon tart from the book.Ten years ago, after we have just moved to San Francisco, myhusband offered to take our family to Fringale for my birthday, to which Igladly agreed.
On our way to therestaurant, I noticed that we were going in the wrong direction – alongEmbarcadero instead of heading to the inner SoMa location. By the entrance to anew chic eatery my daughter shouted, “Surprise!” and disclosed the reason forthe change of venue – my favorite chef was now the owner of a new restaurant,Piperade, and that’s where they were taking me for a lavish dinner of Basquespecialties. We had a feast of seafood, cheeses, and stews. People from theneighboring tables were admiring our food and asking what we’ve ordered.
At the end of our meal, I pulled out my tattered, Burgundy,mustard, and crème fraiche-stained Bistro book, and asked the Chef to autographit for me. He wrote on the front page, “To Emma. Bon Appetit. Gerald.”Now, ten years since its opening, Piperade is stillcollecting accolades from San Francisco dwellers and visitors alike. Tocelebrate the occasion, Chef Hirigoyen opened a brand new event space, adjacentto Piperade and named
Lauburu after the Basque cross which symbolizes spiritand life.This 1,000 square foot space, perfect for private dining,corporate banquets, family celebrations and industry/public events, likewinemakers dinners, became the scene for the 10th Anniversary Luncheon, forwhich the Chef prepared a special menu of his acclaimed creations.
An array of appetizers included absolutely decadent calamari“A la Plancha” lightly grilled with fennel, olives, capers, lemon, andcoriander; bright-red piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese, pistachios,and golden raisins; Chef’s signature terrine of Basque sheep’s milk cheese,ham, and sherry; and a festive plate of seasonal figs with haricots vert andwalnuts. Basque wine Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina, Gipuzkoa 2009accompanied the starters.
Chef’s favorite, whole sea bass, prepared with fried garlicvinaigrette, came second, garnished with squash and mushrooms, and complimentedby Allende, Viura, Rioja 2008. Then the most succulent rack of lamb made its appearancewith intriguing sides of merguez sausage, roasted fennel, fingerling potatoesand cumin-date relish, paired with Herri Mina, Cabernet Franc, Trouleguy 2007.
An old Basque version of Grenache – Arrels de Clos Pissarra,Garnatxa, Clos Oblidat, Montsant 2006 accompanied a plate of the Pyreneescheeses.Finally, a lavish dessert tray presented the signatureorange blossom beignets, milk chocolate and hazelnut “Biarritz Rocher” creamyround tarts, and sumptuous gateau Basque with cherry preserve, all perfectlymatched with the sweet Clos Uroulat, Jurancon 2009 with subtle residual sugar. The ambience of Lauburu with reclaimed wood decor, exposedbrick, a glass-fronted wall mounted wine display, wood beam ceiling with tracklighting, a decorative mirror, and wood panel flooring is simultaneouslyelegant and bohemian – intimate and inviting. A patio access offers somecityscape views.
Lauburu is located at 1015 Battery Street, San Francisco,and is available for private functions by advance reservation. Piperade, at thesame address, is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00p.m. and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and onFriday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m. For more information and reservations call(415) 391-2555 or visit www.piperade.com .
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