Elegant Shanghai Dining in San Francisco

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By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Dark wood panels, sleek granite counter top around the openbar, elegant dining room furniture, crystal fixtures and red velvet curtains inthe lounge area put recently opened Shanghai restaurant in San Francisco anotch above the many casual eateries of the hip Mission Dolores neighborhood.  The obvious sophistication of the place doesn’t stop withthe décor. Shanghai menu, conceived by the proprietor Francis Tsai, a native ofShanghai, and the executive chef Leo Gan, who worked as the opening chef forShanghai 1930, is brimming with Chinese delicacies equally intriguing in avariety of tastes and presentations. An appetizer combination of our six-course tasting menu fortwo came on a large rectangular plate with smaller square bowls containingbites of traditionally offered fish, tofu, veggie, and meat surrounding the BlastingPrawn cocktail – with prawns grilled in mild honey nectar.  The fish was a sweet-tasting sole filet smokedin oolong tea. The tofu was called Vegetarian Duck, and tasted just like aroasted crackling skin of a soy-sauce duck. The veggie came as a crispy hot andsour cabbage, and the meat was presented by Drunken Chicken simmered in Shaoxingwine. Lemongrass Hopper cocktail, one of many created by thebeverage director Michael Petri, seemed a great match for the flavor-forwardappetizers, and was made with vodka, mango, Midori, lemon, soda, andlemongrass.  Our second course was my favorite Xiao Long Bao, a.k.a.Shanghai soup dumplings. They are very delicate, filled with pork and broth,and should be sprinkled with Shanghai black vinegar to reveal their ultimatecomforting effect. These dumplings I eat with a spoon, making a little bite atthe top first, so no delicious broth would escape from the steamed dough purse. For the third course, we had Fish Broth – a dense gelatinoussoup of julienned white fish with sweet flesh mixed in with slightly beaten eggwhite. Another comforting dish for a chilly San-Francisco evening!The fourth course of the tasting menu was actually threecourses.  Chicken Flambé – with cubes ofwhite breast meat braised in sweet vinegar sauce. Whole red and green grapes, chunksof pineapple, strawberries and kiwi graced this very special take on sweet andsour chicken. Fish on the Vine –a deep fried fish fillet with a red winereduction. This one came decorated with a real vine with shiny green leaves. Napa Cabbage – a small head of cabbage braised in a realcream sauce and sprinkled with bacon crumble. Warm and satisfying, this dishmade a great addition to protein-filled plates of more “serious” players. The fifth course was poetically called, Two Colden Faces,and presented a nest of crispy noodles over prawns, mushrooms, and three-colorbell peppers in light sweet sauce.  Our sixth course was rather simple – a plate of sweetenedpan-fried sticky rice with dried berries and a twig of fresh mint, but after alavish meal we just had at spectacular Shanghai no other dessert would do. My dessert cocktail, made by the bartender Kent Lisk, wascalled Anna’s Perfect Pink, and contained gin, hibiscus, pisco, coconut, lemon,goji liquor, and orange flower water. I could’ve easily called it, Emma’sperfect pink!Manager Stephen Lee, present all throughout the night whenwe dined, took care of all the patrons in the dining room, making sure theservice was on par with the ambience and the food at Shanghai. As can beexpected of the restaurant of this level, Shanghai cuisine is prepared with seasonal,locally sourced and mostly organic ingredients. The full bar at Shanghai, besides classic, contemporary andoriginal cocktails and the international wine list, offers a late night HappyHour service with bites menu Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30 p.m. to midnight.Shanghai is located at 2029 Market Street, San Francisco. Dinneris served Tuesday through Sunday from 5:00 to 10:00 p.m., a dim sum brunch onSaturday and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and a late night small platemenu. A specialty of the house is private dining and special functions withtraditional Shanghai dishes. Reservations: (415) 701-8866 or SeatMe.com. Moreinfo at: www.shanghai-rest.com.