So, pigs like mud because it massages their skin and makes them feelgood… How about them humans? I have to admit, I was not up to that muddy business everyone wasraving about. When it comes to any kind of dirt touching moi or anything I’m wearing I’m out of there. It might be slightlypathological, but “squeamish” doesn’t cut it. It took me a lot of nerve and natural curiosity to finally try theworld-famous mud bathes in Calistoga.And, I had to do it in two steps – from a water-drawn thin mud looking likediluted black ink to the thick blanket of pure muck – the kind you get stuck insomewhere in the back roads of Russia at the end of a rainy season. Surprisingly, I enjoyed both. What brought me to Calistoga were its distinct AVA wines and its uniquefor a Napa Valley town character. Despite being part of the ultimate touristdestination – California Wine Country – Calistoga remains a charming hideaway,less crowded, less commercialized, and more open to leisurely pursuits ofhoneymooners, romantic couples of all ages, and other deserving vacationers. 
A historical anecdote relays how the geyser town in the foothills ofMount St. Helena got its name. An early settler and founder of Calistoga, Samuel Brannan, wanted to make it a“Saratoga of California” in honor of the hot springs resort in New York, butfor some reason mispronounced his words, and announced “Calistoga of Sarafornia”to the world instead. Sure enough, a century and a half later, the founding eccentric’spresence is widely felt in the town. 
Spacious Brannan’s restauranton the main drag occupies a corner building with large windows. Inside, atmosphericand richly decorated bar and dinner hall serve classic cocktails, steak house staples,and excellent local wines, like Brian Arden Syrah from Masked Man Vineyard andCultivar cabernet sauvignon – both produced in Napa Valley. 
My Berkshire-Duroc pork chop was served with mustard greens, cannellinibeans, and grain mustard jus, and was predictably good. 
My husband’s braised lamb shank with roasted garlic infused polenta andsautéed Swiss chard was fork tender and flavorful, so I had to have some ofthat, too. 
For the night, we settled in a charming little cottage with allimaginable conveniences belonging to HideawayCottages – a sister property of the popular Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort. I found out that our lodgingwas named very appropriately. Hidden among the trees on a side street there wasa real hideaway beyond the gate – a shaded alley lined with secludedwhite-walled cottages, each with a little garden in front of it. A sparklingswimming pool and a hot tub were kid-free and therefore endlessly appealing forus and other weekender guests – mostly couples. 
All the cottages are named after beautiful cities of the world –Vienna, Paris, Berlin, and even Erevan – the capital of Armenia, and Kiev – thecapital of Ukraine. 
Our home for the night had a cozy fully equipped kitchen with abreakfast nook, a family room with a big-screen TV, and the most luxuriousbedroom with a plush bed. The hotel also provides continental breakfast of coffee, fresh bakedpastry and fruit. After breakfast we were enjoying the mineral water pool on premises,and that could count as exercise. We used the excuse to head to town for brunch.
Café Sarafornia, named afterSam Brannan’s notorious line, has it written on the wall of its boisterousdining room. It also has a line out the door, waiting to be seated, but thefood is worth the wait. The oldest continuously run restaurant in the Napa Valley, CaféSarafornia serves lavish breakfasts all day long. .jpg">
My smoked salmon plate contained a good chunk of lox with capers, sourcream, and fluffy potato pancakes baked with red and green bell peppers. My husband, who likes his morning meal on a sweet side, indulged incheese and apple blintzes with blueberry compote. Calistoga, which has always been the major resort area, is known forits historic hotels.
Mount View Hotel &Spa maintains its century-old appeal, but attracts visitors with fullyredecorated fresh modern looks and a secluded spa area with a heated outdoorpool. 
The hotel offers a number of room and treatment packages for romanticcouples, and a list of specials for the area attractions. Friday nights atMount View luxurious lounge are wine tasting nights that sometimes turn intomovie nights on a large screen TV. 
At the Mount View Spa, mybathtub was filled with water-based natural mud packed with plant extracts,minerals and vitamins. It seemed non-threatening enough to enjoy it by thecandle light until it was time for my massage and then unlimited swim in thesunny pool. That was quite a relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon!Next, I explored the local wineries conveniently located in downtownCalistoga. 
August Briggs is a verysmall producer making 13-15 different wines each year, with only five of themgoing into retail. Most wines come from a single vineyard in Napa or Sonoma,and four – from a vineyard in Calistoga. Obviously, the best way to try August Briggs wines, embellished with agold dandelion logo, is to come to the testing room or join the wine club. I tasted 2009 Russian River Valley Chardonnay – golden, buttery, andtoasty, with aromas of citrus, caramel, and pear, and flavors of ripe melon,apricot, and sweet cream – only 201 cases produced, and 2012 Leveroni Vineyard CarnerosChardonnay with great minerality – 193 cases. Then there were some excellent pinots of Dijon Clones with their purityof fruit and complexity of aromas, and then Napa Valley Syrah and Petite Sirahwith intense colors and distinctive flavors. 2009 Dry Creek Valley “Two Moon Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon impressedme the most with its layers of intense tastes from black currant to plum anddark chocolate.
Before heading for Vermeil Wines/OnThEdgeWinery – the legendary local institution, I stopped at the equally legendaryart gallery called Ca’Toga, solelydedicated to the multi-media art of CarloMarchiori. Drawings, watercolors, acrylics, ceramics, bronze sculptures andmurals overwhelm the gallery floor, walls, and its vaulted ceiling, creating afull-immersion experience in the midst of whimsical imagery delivered with hightechnical execution. I could’ve spent a couple of hours at the gallery studying its manywonders, but I decided to plan another visit that would include a Ca’Toga Villa Tour of the artist’sresidence filled with Roman ruins, statues, fountains, and trompe l’oeilfrescoes. Vermeil Wines was conceivedby Dick Vermeil, Super Bowl winnerand two-time NFL Coach of the Year, while winemaker Paul Smith founded the OnThEdgeWinery. The paraphernalia-filled testing room reflects both personalities andoffers a full line of critically-acclaimed wines.
I was lucky to meet here MarySueFrediani – a winery partner, a third-generation representative of a well-knownwine growing family, and a walking encyclopedia of all things Calistoga. Following MarySue’s expert advice, I tasted the most enticing andwell-rounded collection of wines – each better than the next one, marked by somuch love and attention to detail that after visiting the Vermeil Wines/OnThEdgetasting room I had a feeling of achieved perfection.I thoroughly tasted the barrel-fermented 2011 Vermeil Sauvignon Blancfrom Napa Valley with a little Semillon in it; 2010 Dry Semillon from LuvisiVineyard in Calistoga; 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon rose; and especially 2008OnThEdge Charbono – a rare grape from a vineyard on the edge of Napa-Sonoma.Apparently, there are only 93 acres in all of North America that grow Charbono,and the Frediani family owns 10 of them. 
Other amazing wines I tried included OnThEdge 2006 Nonna’s Secret redwine blend; 2010 zinfandel ”1956 Block” from FredianiVineyard; 2005 Library Selection Syrah, also from Frediani Vineyard, and 2007Cabernet Franc – 96%, with only 4% cab sauv, tasting like black cherries dippedin chocolate. Late harvest 2008 Frediani 1956 zin and 2009 late harvest Semillon witha taste of lychee fruit were sweet, but not sticky and gooey – just perfect,same as everything else in this amazing place. By the late afternoon I was totally in love with the city of Calistogaand ready for the ultimate mud experience – the real stuff at the Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort. 
Baths at Roman Spa offer the authentic Calistoga adventure – massage,mud and mineral baths – a local tradition of over 100 years. The thick blackmud, silky to the touch, consists of the volcanic ash, natural peat, andgeothermal mineral water. Sliding into the bathtub, filled with mother-dirt, I felt like a summerworm in a ripe plum – or what I imagine the worm must feel like surrounded bythe sweet softness of the fruit. I felt warm, weightless, fully relaxed, andhappy. Ancient Romans were known for inventing all kinds of indulgencies,including Terme, or thermal bathresorts more than 3000 years ago, and Roman Spa in Calistoga provides this kindof restorative and nourishing indulgence for its patrons today.Additional information at: www.calistogavisitors.com
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