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By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Redesigned, renovated and renamed,
E& O Asian Kitchen in the heart of San Francisco is geared for smoothsailing. Everything in this elegant restaurant seems to contribute to anexceptionally harmonious dining experience. The restaurant’s ambiance is elegantly dark, with minimalist bamboo-shaped verticallights backing the bar and yielding just enough luminosity to the candlelitdining area to provide a cozy intimate feel.Attentive and efficient servers, clad in black, are happy to providesuggestions, but judging from the few items I’ve tried at E & O, you cannotgo wrong with anything from the menu.
The kitchen, led by
Chef SharonNahm in collaboration with
Arnold EricWong, perfected the art of modern Asian cuisine, so every dish here is aninspired little masterpiece.Starting your meal with the restaurant’s signature cocktails created bylead bartender Carlos Yturria is a no brainer, since there are wonderful libationson offer for every taste.
Simply-sounding Beefeater Gin, sea beans and lime
Sea Witch caught myimagination, and it was light, peridot-green and wickedly refreshing – withslim salty crunchy sea beans mocking seaweed in a tidal wave.
East Meets West made with Wild Turkey bourbon, lemongrass andsoda, was pale pink, almost beige, and subtly creamy on the palate.
Other notable cocktails include
Gazebo made with Hangar vodka,pineapple, basil and lemon, and
Concubine with gin, St. Germain,house made orgeat and lime – but hey, a girl can try only so many in one sitting.
The enhanced dinner menu offers scrumptious starters, and among them humblepickle jars.
A daily selection of house made pickles should never beoverlooked. I tried all four specials of the day, and couldn’t decide whichwere the best – crunchy rainbow carrots with coriander, chewy shiitake with seabeans, bright yellow lemon cucumbers, or crimson li hing mui mangoes.
Oxtail dumplings from the short but enticing dumplings menu were servedwith black beans, carrots, and 5-spice nage, and were very hard to share.
Asian "Gnocchi" from the Rice & Noodles menu are shortcut on bias rice sticks generously interspersed with chunks of beef filet, cabbage,chili flakes, and topped with spicy soy sauce.
Another dish from the same menu section is a wonderfully satisfyingJapanese “bop” – a little platform of crispy rice holding a construction ofpickles, spinach, chili, and marinated plum crowned by a soft-fried fresh egg.
Seafood choices include a sweetly tender wood roasted char siu blackcod, garnished with sautéed pea tendrils, which makes for a light yet filingdish.
Among meat and poultry offerings there is a moderately spicy blackpepper shaking beef, smothered with red onions, tomatoes, chili, andwatercress.
Most of the dishes we tried were suggested by our knowledgeable serverSandra, and manager Holly Friedmann made sure we and other patrons were welltaken care of, as well as the entire skilled staff of E & O – my newfavorite in Downtown San Francisco.
E & O Asian Kitchen is located at 314 Sutter Street in SanFrancisco. Lunch is served Monday-Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Happy Hour3 to 6 p.m. Dinner Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m., Monday-Wednesday from 4 to 10 p.m.,and Thursday through Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m. A Late Night Bar menu isavailable Thursday through Saturday evenings until midnight or close. For moreinformation, visit: www.eosanfrancisco.com.
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