Cultivé dans le Sud de France
Sun-drenched and fertile, Languedoc region produces all kinds and colors of wine known to contemporary man – red, white, rosé, sparkling, mildly sparkling (cremant), dry, naturally sweet, and fortified. Sud de France brand includes over six thousand foods and wines brought to the local, national, and international markets by almost two thousand producers whose number is constantly growing. On my recent trip to Collias Gourmet
In the
Our lesson consisted of a short lecture, some taste bud prep work, and some bottle and barrel tasting, and was taught by Natalie, who came from the
Seated outside, in a cozy patio under blossoming wisteria, we were served by an impeccably dressed team of waiters in black suits, white shirts, and salad-green ties. Our first course was also green, but mere words cannot describe the beauty of it. Let me start with the amuse bouche though. It was delivered on a doll-house cutting board and contained tiny flat bread with rosemary; a Lilliputian fritter of pork feet with tartar sauce; liquid chicken liver cream in a shot glass; mini Madeleine cake with anchovies; lollipop pizza on a toothpick, and a little purple macaroon with black olive jam. A glass of local Viognier accompanied this bacchanalia of delights.
Our bright-green first course was made of haddock ravioli stuffed with a mixture of brandade (salt cod – a specialty of Nîmes); chicken wings, and mussels (sounds strange, but enormously delicious) in a velvety-green watercress bouillon. The meat course (veal with foie gras sauce, wild mushrooms and summer vegetables in walnut oil) was paired with the red Vin de Pays Duché from Uzès – a beloved local blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan.
A traditional Floating Island dessert was served in a dough cup filled with whipped egg-whites and roasted almonds, surrounded by a lake of vanilla cream over rhubarb confit and Gariguette strawberries, and crowned with a pink caramel tangle. The screws of Saint-Gilles
The road to Saint-Gilles is an endless mosaic of green vineyards, silvery olive groves, and blossoming red poppies – “the fields of dreams.” The town is named after a saint who lived here as a hermit and whose tomb attracted thousands of pilgrims, resulting in a construction of an abbey in the Middle Ages. The ruins of the Abbey of Saint-Gilles are famous for the surviving
Standing in the spacious living room of the Château la Pompe, generously decorated with modern art (some produced by the hotel owners) I looked up from the base of a metal corkscrew staircase leading to my bedroom. There was no way both my hips and my luggage would fit into a space between the spiral railing and the pole around which it wound up. The same thoughts visibly occupied my fellow travelers who were contemplating three other “screws” in the other corners of the room. Gallantly, our host took our luggage upstairs, and brought it back down before our departure, but I still can’t imagine how he did that.
In the morning I had a chance to see the many other curiosities of the historical property – a bamboo-lined canal that runs between the two buildings, with ducks and koi; open-air swimming pools, fountains and outdoor sculptural compositions; a couple of free-roaming peacocks; and the hotel’s own Roman baths, made out of several gigantic wine vats placed next to each other, equipped with plumbing, and appropriately furnished and decorated.
Our breakfast of freshly-baked croissants, home-made jams, coffee, and orange juice in glass amphorae was served in Mas du Versadou, filled with family heirlooms, in a narrow dining room with a long table, Romanesque chairs, and multi-colored glassware, called Roman Tavern.
Both hotel buildings and the land around are owned and operated by husband and wife Marie and Michel Durand-Roger, who were previously engaged in winemaking.
Some of their neighbors combine their vine-growing business with hospitality, renting out a couple of rooms during tourist season, and offering home-cooked dinners made of local specialties.
We had a memorable wine-tasting seminar and a delicious catered dinner at Le Château La Baume (“the cave”), originally built as a guest house to accommodate the pilgrims of Saint-Gilles. The current owners of Le Château La Baume, Sandrine and Jean-François Andreoletti, produce white, red, and rosé wines with an image of an ancient Roman statue of Bacchus, the god of winemaking, on the label.
The original Bacchus statue graces the tasting room of the property that leads to the cave – the 18th century mansion occupies a site of an excavated Gallo- Roman villa. At dinner, our gracious hostess Sandrine treated us to a succession of excellent wines with the Bacchus label, and explained the intricacies of the fermentation and blending methods employed by her husband, a fifth-generation winemaker.
In Sandrine’s kitchen, chef Eric Hugnin prepared a traditional Saint-Gilles meal for us – mixed greens salad with blue cheese; slow-cooked beef with Camargue rice and sage; and a dessert of local strawberries and cream.Cassoulet de Languedoc Speaking of traditional dishes, cassoulet is the most notorious of them in the
That night, we stayed at a large and well-appointed hotel Les Jardins de Saint Benoit in the
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